Saturday, November 21, 2009
What's the HoseMaster Drinking?
Dehlinger 2003 Syrah "Goldridge Vineyard" Russian River Valley
During the current Recession we've all had to make some tough choices, find ways to spend less money. Go out to dinner less often, and when we do, register false complaints in the hope the restaurant will comp your meal. Don't leave a tip, leave coupons. Stop buying Fancy Feast and switch to regular cat food--Grandma won't notice. And the furballs get smaller. Rent panties. All of those things will help. But most of us have also had to quit a lot of winery mailing lists. I used to buy wine from dozens of producers, but now I'm down to a precious few. Dehlinger is one of them. Tom Dehlinger is as consistently brilliant a Russian River winemaker as there is, rarely, if ever, taking a false step. I buy a little bit less of his wines than I once did, but I still buy what I can afford. Whenever I open an older Dehlinger wine, like this 2003 "Goldridge" Syrah, I know I'm in for a treat. Dehlinger understands balance and restraint. At six years old, this Syrah is ethereally lovely. There's a purity here, a focus, a prettiness that defies description. Drinking the '03 Dehlinger Syrah was like biting into a sweet, ripe, red plum. Add a dash, just a dash, of meatiness, a pinch of leather, wrap it in lively acidity and chalky tannins, and, man, this was a satisfying bottle of wine.
The HoseMaster Score 875,459 Points
Disclaimer: I have never used performance-enhancing drugs. My testicles just naturally didn't descend.